Precut Standard Clear Glass and Standard Opaque and Transparents
Various glass decorative elements (COE96) including:
Iridized Glass Scraps
Draw design and lay out various glass pieces on bottom standard piece. Using your glass cutter on your Morton Board or Waffle Grid, score the glass and use your runners to pop the pieces apart. Be sure to wear you glass cutting safety glasses when cutting.
Use Elmer’s gel glue to hold glass in place. If with bottom standard piece and goodies, entire glass surface is not even, then add a thin clear to the bottom of the standard piece. Remember – glass wants to go back to ¼”.
Use a bottom standard piece – add an accent layer – add fill – this should give you enough glass so the glass can go back to ¼” when it fires out.
After glue dries, cut fiber paper to fit under glass bottom leaving at least
¼” – ½” spare around entire bottom of glass
Place fiber paper under glass on kiln shelf. Shelf should be at least 8” up from the bottom if you are using a regular pottery or ceramic kiln rather than a glass kiln.
For Full Fuse:
If in big ceramic kiln - Fire on medium to Cone 015 – with a 10-minute hold. (I’ve had decent results with both speeds.) If in glass kiln, fire like jewelry firing (500 per hour to target temp) with hold. See our Firing Schedules if you would like a detailed program to follow. Please do a test fire FIRST with a glass project to see if your kiln is hot. Otherwise, you may get over-fired glass projects.
Kiln may be flashed after it has shut off between 1465 – 1100 degrees if using a Fusion 7 or Hot Start Pro and pieces are no larger than 4” x 4”.
Wear kiln safety glasses and gloves when flashing.
Do not flash below 1000 degrees or until it reaches BELOW 900 degrees during annealing process. If piece is rough on edges, it can be filed down with file. Wear goggles and dust mask when filing.
Do a test piece to make sure the firing schedule gives you the desired results.
See Firing Schedules page for firing program suggestions.